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Food Blog (117)

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Saturday, 18 May 2013 00:56

Fesenjan - a Persian favorite

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Recipe originally posted on recessionchef.com

I love rich food and I've come to love the mix of a rich sauce with meat over rice. You get this a lot with Thai curries, Indian Curries, Persian Korescht, and Afghan Quormas. This seems to be a very good format and economical too. Spices cost a lot but you don't need many and rice is cheap. Add meat of some sort and you have a great meal for a decent price. Living in the Pacific Northwest means that we have very limited selection of Persian restaurants and even when you do find one it's probably overpriced and low on quality. When I'm in Orange County I always eat at the Caspian Restaurant in Irvine not only for the environment but for the Fesanjoon. 

 

Fesenjoon (slang for Khoresht-e Fesenjan) is a "stew" made up of a sauce from walnuts and pomegranate syrup/juice. It's wonderfully tart and deep. You add chicken and serve over Basmati rice. Not everyone likes it but it's one of my favorite things to eat.

 

 I've eaten Fesenjoon at many restaurants and tried making it on many occasions. I've been somewhat successful but my Fesenjoon doesn't taste like the Caspians which is wonderfully smooth without being too sweet. Last week I ran across kshar.net, a site run by man determined to bring Persian culture to the masses. What brought me to his site was a three part series on Fesenjoon. His cooking style is a bit loose so you have to pay close attention to what he's doing to get similar results. He also doesn't argue about what SHOULD be, it's your food make it how you like it. He seems to be intent on letting a few ingredients talk as apposed to having many ingredients fighting for attention - I agree with this philosophy. 

 

With that in mind I made Fesenjoon the other day. Following is the pseudo recipe.

  1. 2.5 c of walnuts
  2. 1 c of water
  3. 2 c of pomegranate syrup or 1/4 c pomegranate molasses and 1/4 cup sugar*
  4. saffron 
  5. turmeric
  6. one onion diced
  7. 2 lbs of chicken thighs
  8. 2 cups of basmati rice
  9. salt 
  10. oil 

 

 

  1. For the sauce place a portion of the walnuts in the blender with a little water and blend. If they're too dry to blend add more water. Keep adding water and nuts until they're coursely ground. You don't want a smooth paste here or you won't taste walnuts.

  2. Once their ground place them in a pot on the stove and cook them on medium-high while stirring to keep from burning

  3. Add pomegranate syrup and sugar - see my note below and turn to medium-low and simmer for 1.5 hours minimum. The sauce will get darker the longer you simmer it

  4. Heat oil in saute pan until hot, add onion and saute until browned. Dark sauces want browned onions, not just golden

  5. Add perhaps a teaspoon of turmeric, then add chicken thighs, brown on both sides and set aside

  6. When the sauce has been simmering for 1.5 - 2 hrs add it to the chicken and simmer again for another 60 minutes. Turn the chicken over on occasion to baste in the sauce

  7. The oils from the walnuts will rise to the top (and be green colored like olive oil) and the chicken will get a bit of a crust from the sauce on it

  8. Let cool and put in the refrigerator - this is a second day dish

  9. The next day put the saute pan back on the heat and warm gently on medium-low for about an hour

  10. Serve over basmati rice

 

* Note on syrup vs molasses. I bought a large jar of pomegranate syrup made in Slovenia. This looks like a jar of cranberry juice but you can tell the liquid is definitely thicker. It was already sweetened with sugar and two cups seemed about right. Adding sugar made the sauce overly sweet. If you have pomegranate molasses (common) you'll want to put in 1/4 cup and add 1/4 cup of granulated sugar as well. Adjust flavors accordingly.

A lot of times Fesenjan cooked at home and sometimes in restaurants is pasty and/or so tart you can't eat it. The pastiness seems to be from people undercooking it. Don't get impatient and eat it too soon, you'll be sorry. This dish can be eaten same day but it's much nicer the next day.

 

A couple of things that seem to make a difference 

  1. Put the pomegranate syrup in with the walnuts from the beginning
  2. Don't grind the walnuts too fine so the sauce still has a walnut taste 
  3. Cook the sauce for a long time. It will get darker and richer as time goes on
  4. Add Pomegranate syrup/sugar according to your taste
  5. Don't get crazy with ingredients - you don't need cardemon, coriander or any of that other stuff.
 

 

 

Sunday, 17 February 2013 08:43

Doro Wat - Ethiopian at it's best

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Ethiopian food is a treat for us locally. Although Seattle based Ethiopian restaurants can't hold a candle to those in the other Washington (D.C.) they're still pretty decent and it's hard to argue against Ethiopian food in general. However, none of the local restaurants are very near me meaning I need to get in the car and face traffic to have Doro Wat. Now that I can get Injera from Amy's Mercato (http://www.yelp.com/biz/amys-merkato-seattle-2) I don't have to do the hard part - make Injera (or source Teff).  To save time/energy I also picked up about half pound of Berbere spices from a local African market. These two time saving measures make Doro Wat possible at home. 

 
Naturally making both at home would cut the cost of this dish substantially but even buying my Injera/Berbere from local stores this ended up costing about $1 per person per meal.  Following is the preview recipe for Doro Wat. It's not hard but don't get impatient as it takes quite a while. Later I'll formalize it into a real recipe for the recipebook section of Recessionchef.
 

Ingredients
  • 1.75 cups of ghee (clarified butter)
  • 10 cups of finely chopped red onions
  • 3 tbs chopped garlic
  • 2 tbs chopped ginger
  • 1 cup berbere spices
  • 1 cup water (as needed)
  • 1/2 cup red wine
  • 3 lbs of chicken thighs/legs
  • 4 hard boiled eggs
 
Directions:
 
  1. Place red onions in a dry dutch oven over medium heat and cook while stirring until brown  everywhere (not burnt) Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the pan periodically. This may take between an hour or as long as two.
  2. Once onions are brown and very soft add the chopped garlic and ginger and cook for an additional 15-20 minutes
  3. Add the ghee and berbere spices and stir occasionally. Cook for another 15 minutes.
  4. Add red wine and cook for another 15 minutes, if the sauce is too thick add 1/4 water
  5. Add Chicken pieces and eggs and cover 
  6. Simmer Wat until chicken is done about 20-30 minutes. 
  7. Bring sauce to desired consistancy by adding water
  8. Serve with Injera
 
 
Friday, 18 May 2012 23:12

Calphalon joins the ranks of Al Clad in my book

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I was cooking sweet potatoes in a bed of salt the other night and I hear a pop from my oven. Thinking a sweet potato skin had popped I opened the oven door and it was in fact my glass lid to my Calphalon Saute pan. Yes, it shattered at 400 degrees. Thank you Calphalon, I'll remember that when I replace it.  

With that in mind I wonder about the quality control of major brand names. You may recall that I had the "copper" core of my Emerilware made by Al Clad melt out and to my surprise find out the copper was in fact aluminum. Strange, it was even colored copper on the outside. I of course wrote an article and took pictures as well. 

I didn't pay a ton for the Calphalon pan but Amazon is listing it at $175 and on sale for $75. I think for either price the lid should withstand normal oven temperatures. 

Tuesday, 15 May 2012 08:03

Put some charcoal on the fire

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I was wandering by the local Quality Food Store (QFC) recently and noticed that due to it being spring and everyone wanting to BBQ they had a nice display set up with a grill and many bags of charcoal brickets but something was off. Upon closer inspection the grill they decided to surround with brickets wouldn't even be able to use them... because it was gas.  Maybe they have a package deal - if you buy the grill you get a free back of charcoal....

Friday, 27 April 2012 09:51

Khoresht-e Fesenjan

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I love rich food and I've come to love the mix of a rich sauce with meat over rice. You get this a lot with Thai curries, Indian Curries, Persian Korescht, and Afghan Quormas. This seems to be a very good format and economical too. Spices cost a lot but you don't need many and rice is cheap. Add meat of some sort and you have a great meal for a decent price. Living in the Pacific Northwest means that we have very limited selection of Persian restaurants and even when you do find one it's probably overpriced and low on quality. When I'm in Orange County I always eat at the Caspian Restaurant in Irvine not only for the environment but for the Fesanjoon. 

Fesenjoon (slang for Khoresht-e Fesenjan) is a "stew" made up of a sauce from walnuts and pomegranate syrup/juice. It's wonderfully tart and deep. You add chicken and serve over Basmati rice. Not everyone likes it but it's one of my favorite things to eat.

 I've eaten Fesenjoon at many restaurants and tried making it on many occasions. I've been somewhat successful but my Fesenjoon doesn't taste like the Caspians which is wonderfully smooth without being too sweet. Last week I ran across kshar.net, a site run by man determined to bring Persian culture to the masses. What brought me to his site was a three part series on Fesenjoon. His cooking style is a bit loose so you have to pay close attention to what he's doing to get similar results. He also doesn't argue about what SHOULD be, it's your food make it how you like it. He seems to be intent on letting a few ingredients talk as apposed to having many ingredients fighting for attention - I agree with this philosophy. 

With that in mind I made Fesenjoon the other day. Following is the pseudo recipe.

  •  2.5 c of walnuts
  • 1 c of water
  • 2 c of pomegranate syrup or 1/4 c pomegranate molasses and 1/4 cup sugar*
  • saffron 
  • turmeric
  • one onion diced
  • 2 lbs of chicken thighs
  • 2 cups of basmati rice
  • salt 
  • oil
  1. For the sauce place a portion of the walnuts in the blender with a little water and blend. If they're too dry to blend add more water. Keep adding water and nuts until they're coursely ground. You don't want a smooth paste here or you won't taste walnuts.
  2. Once their ground place them in a pot on the stove and cook them on medium-high while stirring to keep from burning
  3. Add pomegranate syrup and sugar - see my note below and turn to medium-low and simmer for 1.5 hours minimum. The sauce will get darker the longer you simmer it
  4. Heat oil in saute pan until hot, add onion and saute until browned. Dark sauces want browned onions, not just golden
  5. Add perhaps a teaspoon of turmeric, then add chicken thighs, brown on both sides and set aside
  6. When the sauce has been simmering for 1.5 - 2 hrs add it to the chicken and simmer again for another 30 minutes. Turn the chicken over on occasion to baste in the sauce
  7. The oils from the walnuts will rise to the top (and be green colored like olive oil) and the chicken will get a bit of a crust from the sauce on it
  8. Let cool and put in the refrigerator - this is a second day dish
  9. The next day put the saute pan back on the heat and warm gently on medium-low for about an hour
  10. Serve over basmati rice

 

* Note on syrup vs molasses. I bought a large jar of pomegranate syrup made in Slovenia. This looks like a jar of cranberry juice but you can tell the liquid is definitely thicker. It was already sweetened with sugar and two cups seemed about right. Adding sugar made the sauce overly sweet. If you have pomegranate molasses (common) you'll want to put in 1/4 cup and add 1/4 c

up of granulated sugar as well. Adjust flavors accordingly.

 A lot of times Fesenjan cooked at home and sometimes in restaurants is pasty and/or so tart you can't eat it. The pastiness seems to be from people undercooking it. Don't get impatient and eat it too soon, you'll be sorry. This dish can be eaten same day but it's much nicer the next day.

 A couple of things that seem to make a difference

  1. Put the pomegranate syrup in with the walnuts from the beginning
  2. Don't grind the walnuts too fine so the sauce still has a walnut taste 
  3. Cook the sauce for a long time. It will get darker and richer as time goes on
  4. Add Pomegranate syrup/sugar according to your taste

  

 

Tuesday, 27 March 2012 03:49

Last pumpkin of the season

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Regular readers of the Man, the Myth, the Legend will know that I'm a big fan of pumpkins. See my previous pumpkin articles as proof. This year I did a Pumpkin Smackdown article on the best pumpkin varieties and tested based on flavor, texture, cookability, longevity and availability.  As you may recall I rated the Rouge vif d'Etampes (Cinderella) pumpkin the winner. Most other pumpkins even if they have decent flavor fall down in one way or another. Since I refuse to use "pumpkin" from a can my pumpkin buying season is fairly limited to October and possibly some of November due to the popularity of pumpkins at Halloween for the humans and the somewhat related popularity of pumpkins as food for farm animals in November. I put quotes around the word pumpkin in the previous sentence because what's in the can is listed simply as pumpkin alone in the ingredients list and yet it's BROWN. Pumpkin is NOT brown as you'll see in the photo in this article and in fact it's very very orange. I'm not sure why a can of nothing but pumpkin ends up being brown but I'm skeptical that they found some unknown variety of pumpkin with brown flesh. Until that mystery is solved by Scooby and the gang I'll stick to fresh pumpkin that happens to be bright orange. 

With that in mind you may recall from my Pumpkin Smackdown article that the Cinderella excelled on longevity. If left alone and their skin is not broken in any way they'll last up to 6 months. My daughter Natalya brought me several Cinderella pumpkins in late October. I cooked my last one tonight - 5 whole months later. A lot of people tell you that pumpkins need to be stored in dark cool places etc. but these pumpkins were stored in the front room under my Chippendale era Buffet at room temperature for 5 months. The trick is for the air to be dry (no garages) and to never break the skin. If you nick the pumpkin's skin you have to cook it within a day or two or it will rot. If the pumpkin is stored in a damp location it will rot. The longest I've ever kept pumpkins has been inside the house in a warm dry environment where they didn't get damaged. 

This pumpkin was a very large one which is why I waited until the very last moment to cook it. Because of it's size it wouldn't fit on my half sheet pans thus I had to cut it across the poles (instead of around the equator) and cook one half at a time taking nearly 6 hours. The meat I was able to retrieve from it will probably get me another 6 loaves of pumpkin bread and maybe another pan of Pumpkin Lasagna.

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